I few weeks ago I was surprised to have a Saturday off, my wife had plans to visit her sister in PA and I would be home alone. Not a problem. Their was a spot open on Foods of New York's Central Greenwich Village NYC Food and Culture Walking Tour.
It would be my fourth tour with them and by far the best. It was also led by Raheem, the same guide for my Chinatown tour. (see December 29 post) I was happy to walk with him a second time and plan to do so again. He hosts a sushi and Japanese tapas tasting (sit down).
Per usual I took the train to NYC and the A train to West 4th and wondered down Manitta Lane to the intersection of Bleecker and MacDougal. Also know as café corner.
Our meeting point was Café del Mare on the south west corner.
89 MacDougal
What a lovely spot, with a more than gracious bartender. I walked by, 30 minutes early for the tour, he greeted me, invited me in, and offered use of the bathroom. I ordered a beer to repay his kindness. Other tour members were also enjoying his hospitality. The menu looked interesting. Would go back just because he was so gracious.
Greek revival townhouses just south of Café del Mare
Bob Dylan lived in the burgundy one until fans drove he out….
A tenement building across from the Café……
Tenement: a multiple unit building used to house large numbers of low-income families. Could be 16 people in one or two rooms, shared “bath” at the end of the hall, and an outhouse. Think about it. I would work 16 hours days to be out and move out…..
Oh and the year round Christmas greeting…..
Do not let the blackboard fool you. The food is lovely, our Kielbasa and Local Bean Soup with Braised Autumn Greens was perfect, hardy and just right for a cold winter day. Our guide recommended the smoked mac and cheese, works for me. They also offer blind dining. Diners are blindfolded during the meal. OK.....
85 MacDougal Street
Minetta Tavern opened 1937 and was named after the Minetta Brook, which ran southwest from 23rd Street to the Hudson River.
Frequent patrons were Hemingway, Ezra Pound, Eugene O'Neill, e. e. Cummings, Dylan Thomas, and Joe Gould (look him up). Plus any number of gangsters and pugilists.
113 MacDougal
http://www.minettatavernny.com/ Do not let the exterior or the interior for that matter, put you off. This family owned restaurant was established in 1918, is a central village landmark and a step back in time. I believe they also won a James Beard Award. We were served tallerine/a thin flat noodle with peso and penne with classic bolognaise (veal, pork and beef blend).
97 MacDougal
In the basement of this building was The Gaslight Cafe. Opened in 1958 by John Mitchell, the dark, steamy, subterranean Gaslight showcased beat poets Allen Ginsberg and Gregory Corso but later became a folk club. Among those who performed were Bob Dylan, Richie Havens, Jose Feliciano, Tom Paxton, Phil Ochs, Dave Van Ronk, The Blues Project and Jimi Hendrix. In the late '60s and early '70s, Odetta, Bonnie Raitt, and Mimi Farina performed there as did Bruce Springsteen.
It is also home to the snap. There were air shafts from the basement up to the apartments above, the windows of the Gaslight opened into the air shafts, so when people would applaud, the sound went up the shaft and the neighbors would complain to the police.Problem solved, they snapped their fingers instead.
Located on Minetta Ln., this restaurant is a true surprise.
The chef’s table where we were served buffalo milk ricotta cheese cake…..
Oh my………..
24 Minetta Ln.
Established in 1950 Café Wha is a Village landmark. Allen Ginsberg, Bob Dylan, Jimi Hendrix, Bruce Springsteen, Peter, Paul and Mary, Kool and the Gang, Richard Pryor and Bill Cosby were regulars.
115 MacDougal
It is Greenwich Village....the past lives.....
Federal Style townhouses built by Aaron Burr….
They were summer/country homes for people living below Canal St….
Washington Square Park……The hanging tree in winter…..
The Northern Row.....
Greek Revival townhouse on the park. Once home to John Dos Passos, Edith Wharton and Edward Hopper
Latin Cuba cuisine, hand rolled cigars,live music and mojitos.
We were served chicken and beef empanadas with tomatillo sauce and garlic, lime, olive oil marinated yucca. Wonderful…
Click on the link…It is fun….
222 Thompson St.
Street mural on the side wall of the Red Lion.....
Professor Longhair, Aerosmith, The Marshall Tucker Band, Patti Smith, Blues Traveler, Bruce Springsteen, The New York Dolls, Jerry Jeff Walker, Willie Nile, Steve Forbert, Bonnie Raitt, and Smithereens all performed here….
157 Bleeker
The pasta menu board at Raffettos Pasta Shop…
114 W. Houston
Pasta machines…..
Next stop SoHo......
Joe's Dairy
On a good day Joe’s sells over 3000 hand made balls of mozzarella: plain, salted and house smoked. They make them by inserting the curd in 185̊ water and kneading the curd to for a ball by hand, no gloves. They latex changes the flavour of the cheese. We had smoked mozzarella from Joe’s with Sicilian black pepper sausage from Pino’s Italian Butcher Shop across the street.
156 Sullivan
Our last stop, Once Upon a Tart for a chocolate walnut treat………..
Might just take this walk again with friends……….
